Buying A Pool Cue
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There are many purchases in your life that require a substantial amount of research prior to making a final decision. This process can be tedious and overwhelming, almost enough to make any power-shopper throw in the towel. Buying a new pool cue does not have to be one of those items.
For many of us, they type of cue we purchase may be based on the size of our pocket books. Well, rest assured. Finding the right cue doesn't have to break the bank. Your game WILL benefit from the consistency of any two-piece maple pool cue when compared to playing with wobbly, beat-up, old house cues. When setting your budget, a player's skill level should be considered for determining the appropriate cost of the new cue.
As a player improves and gets more and more serious, there may be a need for a designated breaking or jumping cue. These feature special technology for their respective functions and should require some research on their own. So, if you're in the market for a new pool cue either for yourself or for someone else, consider these five things and spend more time playing with the cue rather than shopping for it.
Are you looking for the perfect cue for you but you're not sure where to start Choosing a pool cue can be a confusing process if you don't know what you're looking for. We've developed a list of questions that will help you find the cue that's right for you.Just click on the question below that fits the type of cue you're looking for and you'll be taken to a page that answers your question.
If you play once a year, these defects are to be overcome. If you play more often, however, you will quickly feel the desire to own your own cue, as this would also have the advantage of not having to get used to a new cue every time. The good news: Good cues are available from about 50 Euro. In this article we explain (very modestly :) ) everything you need to know about cues and what to look out for when buying a billiard cue.
We have tried to collect as much information as possible about what you should consider when buying a pool cue and which cue suits you best. If you still have questions after this long article, which we could not answer, then please contact us. We are happy to help!
First of all, the basic distinction: Depending on the type of game (in this article we will only refer to the world's most played variants Pool Billiards, Snooker and Carom, even though there are dozens of other, mostly local variants) we use different types of cues. This may seem confusing: It's actually always just a piece of wood with a piece of leather on the top, right In principle this is true and you can play pool quite successfully with a snooker cue or vice versa. Many peculiarities of the cues have grown historically and are not absolutely necessary. And yet we recommend to use the appropriate cue for the respective game.
Most common nowadays in most countries is American pool billiards: 15 colored balls with the numbers 1-15 (7 \"stripes\", 7 \"solids\" and the black 8) are played in six holes. We will leave the rules of the game out of consideration here, since they only play a minor role for the material. Pool billiards has the peculiarity that experts use not only one cue, but up to three cues: a playing cue, a so-called \"break cue\" and a \"jump cue\", with which the white cue ball can be made to jump in accordance with the rules.
Cues in pool billiards are almost always made of maple wood, at least the upper part. The lower part is often made of maple, but can also be made of completely different woods. They are made in two parts with a thread in the middle. This has no advantages for the playing characteristics (rather disadvantages), but serves to transport the cue easier. Therefore house cues in pool halls and pubs are one piece, because they don't have to be transported. Pool billiard cues are usually quite elaborately decorated; cheap cues with printed, glued and overpainted designs, more expensive cues with real inlays of precious woods, mother of pearl, stones or other materials.
Jump cues are special cues with which the cue ball can be made to jump in a rule-compliant manner. In pool, it is allowed to jump over \" interfering\" balls, as long as you follow the rules and hit the cue ball from above instead of \" lifting\" it from below. Jump cues are much shorter than normal playing cues, because you have to hit the ball very steeply when jumping. The classic jump cue has a length of about 105-107 cm and is usually also split in two so that it fits into a standard case next to the other cues. Some jump cues even consist of several parts, so that different cue lengths can be assembled, depending on the type of jump. The upper parts are mostly made of wood, classically maple. To achieve maximum effect and to let the ball jump as easy and controlled as possible, the ferrule is mostly made of materials like carbon or bakelite. The very hard tip is usually also made of bakelite or phenol.
As the name suggests, a break/jump cue combines the properties of a break cue and a jump cue. This is, of course, very practical, since you save one cue and can store your entire playing equipment more easily, e.g. in a 2/2 split case. As a rule, break/jump cues are made up of three parts and can be used as a classic break cue in their entirety. In addition to the central division, the bottom part can also be divided again. By removing the rearmost piece or removing the middle part, you can usually create two different jump queue variants that can be used depending on the situation. A break/jump cue is the ideal solution for all those who do not carry too much material with them and still want to be well equipped for all situations of pool billiards.
In pubs, bars or clubs you can still find mainly one-piece cues, so-called house cues. Since these do not normally have to be transported, there is no division and the cues are left in one piece. As a rule, house cues in the game of pool are of very simple quality and cannot be compared with two-piece cues.
In snooker usually a very unique type of cues is used. In contrast to pool, the cues are usually classic and traditionally constructed - both in appearance and construction. The usual length is 146 to 147 centimeters, the weight is classically about 17-18 ounces. On the solid wood top there is a brass ferrule and a leather tip of 9 to 10 millimeters diameter, which is glued directly onto the wood. Due to the relatively small tip, which is needed for the precise playing of the smaller snooker balls, the upper parts of snooker cues are thinner overall compared to the pool and carom game. Since the shafts are usually made from a single piece of wood, they are somewhat stiffer than their counterparts in the other billiard disciplines and also have a uniform, often very characteristic grain.
In contrast to pool billiards, snooker cues do not normally use a grip tape with linen winding or made of rubber, leather, etc. The handle of a snooker cue is usually finished with a glossy finish. On the one hand, to keep a pure hit, on the other hand, because the cues in the handle area are often decorated with beautiful veneer inlays, which you do not want to cover. The mostly coloured veneers are bevelled and glued separately to the prepared grip part to give the cue an individual appearance.
The weight has a direct influence on the playing characteristics of the cue. With a heavier cue the precision is a bit higher and you don't have to use so much force. But very soft shots are a bit harder to control. With a standard weight of 17-18 ounces, snooker models are usually slightly lighter than their pool or carom counterparts. However, there are also models with a weight of 20 ounces and more for snooker players who prefer heavier cues. The weight of the snooker cues is usually not changeable, because no weight systems are built in.
There are basically two types of snooker cues. One-piece models and split cues that are screwed together for playing. In contrast to pool, where one-piece models are usually simple house cues, which qualitatively can not compete with the two-piece models, the one-piece model in snooker is quite popular and respected. Still various professionals play with a one-piece cue. For practical reasons alone, the two-piece cue has become generally accepted, because the transport is of course much more comfortable.
Snooker cues are usually covered with a slightly softer tip than pool cues, although here the preferences of the players can be very different. Sometimes the tip overlaps the ferrule like a mushroom, sometimes the ferrule closes properly. The diameter is 9-10 millimeters and the leather is glued directly to the wooden end of the top on the open ferrule. For chalking the tip, green chalk is used as standard for snooker.
Because of the much larger table compared to pool and carom, snooker requires much more frequently the use of extensions to be able to perform all the shots comfortably. With the 3/4 split cues, an extended end can be screwed on instead of the normal last quarter on some models to increase the range and bridge longer distances. With centrally divided and one-piece snooker cues there is usually a thread in the grip into which extensions can be screwed. There are the most different models. From very short extensions, which are only a few centimeters long, to models that measure almost one meter, everything is included. Besides screw extensions there are also practical slip-on extensions that work with almost all cues.
In carom, as in snooker, usually only one cue is used, as no break or jump shots are required. However, different cues are preferred for different types of carom games. Caroml cues are generally much shorter than pool cues (these have a length of about 147 cm) and are 140-141 cm long.
Depending on the game, the diameter and weight of the cues also vary in carom billiards. The weight of three-cushion cues is about 500-530 grams, similar to pool cues. The tip is usually about 12 mm thick. In the free game and in the cadre are also often used slightly lighter (470-490 grams) models with a thinner tip (11 mm). 59ce067264
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